There was genuine panging sadness to leave our little house in Caye Caulker, our breakfast of fried jacks stuffed with chicken, beans, cheese and eggs, the friendly faces we had got to know (but not the venomous mosquito spray that a van sprayed round the town at 5am every morning). We asked about staying – a wooden house with a kitchen would cost 900belize dollars (£300)./ month. We could make and sell art, spend more time snorkelling on that divine reef and live a mighty fine life….
But it was not yet time to settle.
Straight off the boat into Belize city we got our toenails painted by an enterprising lady, then a cab to the Community Baboon Sanctuary (CBS) at Bermudian Landing, an hour west.
A wooden hut. A couple of people hanging. Some dogs playing. A noise, in the distant trees, like elephants.
Um, can we stay the night and see some monkeys?
Not many people (noone) stays the night here. Which led us to 2 incredible days.
Sleeping on a borrowed blow up mattress on the floor in the community library, watching iguanas, fruit bats and blue herons from a canoe, helping our canoe guide Kade create his Facebook gangster profile, learning Creole from the local old men as we drank rum with them on their van bonnets.
Stroking the belly of a black howler monkey baby, borrowing beach cruiser bikes and cycling with Kade to the next village ‘Double Headed Cabbage’, picking up other kids on bikes along the way as the sun set. Sampling cashew fruit wine, drinking coconuts straight from the jungle, eating rice and beans with a local family and learning all about the fantastic projects CBS do in the local community. We could have stayed longer….but next stop San Ignacio.